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The Resilience of Izakaya Culture in Japan’s Changing Foodscape
The Cultural Significance of Izakayas
Izakayas, an integral part of Japanese culture, have flourished since the post-war era, firmly establishing themselves within the eat-out market. Today, the izakaya industry boasts a market size of 1.6 trillion yen, having reached its peak in the 1980s with the popular chant “Ikki! Ikki!” signaling a call to drink. Despite economic downturns and shifts in lifestyle, izakayas have continuously adapted, paving the way for new leading brands in each generation.
Historical Roots and Evolution
The izakaya culture in Japan originated from liquor stores that allowed customers to drink sake on the premises — a concept known as “kakuchi,” leading to the term “izakaya” or “stay and drink.” This setup gradually included serving side dishes to complement the drinks, laying the foundational culture of izakayas. However, early izakayas were mostly individually operated, without the presence of the chain models seen today. The first significant shift towards chain izakayas began with “Funachu” in Tokyo’s Asakusa in 1946, which transitioned from selling river fish to offering year-round chicken skewers due to seasonal fishing limitations.