The Evolution of Tokyo’s Under-the-Rails Dining: A Century-Long Legacy

A century ago, a devastating earthquake struck the Kanto region of Japan, leading to the loss of over 100,000 lives. In its wake, an unexpected silver lining emerged: the birth of a dining culture beneath the elevated train tracks, which thrives to this day.

These dining havens under the railway tracks, known as “Tetsudo-shita” (literally “below the rails”), started sprouting under Tokyo’s brick-lined railway arches. After a long day at work, many salarymen flock here to enjoy a drink, discuss business, or chat about personal matters.

The origins of this distinctive culture can be traced back to a tiny eatery in Tokyo that served Kanto stew. Today, this establishment is called “Iwasaki” and is situated under the JR Yamanote Line at Yurakucho station. Iwasaki, initially located in Asakusa, was destroyed by the Kanto earthquake. The restaurant’s proprietor, Yorimon Iwasaki, identified an opportunity under the then state-owned railway arches. Sheltered from the elements and without rent to pay, Iwasaki sought permission from the Railway Ministry and became the pioneer in Tetsudo-shita dining.

The restaurant’s strategic location near Tokyo’s bustling press headquarters meant journalists working round-the-clock were regular patrons. Adapting to their needs, Iwasaki started…