Savoring Japan in a Sip: The Rise of Ochoko-Don Cuisine

Last year, the bustling streets of Shibuya, Japan witnessed the emergence of a novel Japanese cuisine, “Ochoko-Don.” Imagine traditional rice dishes elegantly presented in sake cup-sized bowls. Not only did this stylish presentation take social media by storm, but a year into its introduction, numerous variations have flooded the market.

The stark contrast between Ochoko-Don’s unconfined ingredient choices and the meticulous representation of Japanese culinary arts appeals significantly to younger consumers. From eel, sweet shrimp, duck, snapper, to pork, these little bowls dazzle with diverse flavors. In Kyoto, the “Gion Kankanderirei” restaurant has been serving a “Small Bowl Don Lunch Set” since June. University student, Wunai Cai-Cai, who discovered this picturesque meal on Instagram commented, “Although there are eight bowls, the portion size is just perfect.” Each bowl contains roughly 30 grams of rice, almost double that of a traditional sushi.

The restaurant’s owner, Matsura Kojiro, takes pride in Kyoto’s unique ingredients, like yuba (tofu skin) and conger eel. “Drizzling it with mackerel soup accentuates the rich Kyoto flavor,” he shares.

This innovative concept, born in the summer of 2022, was the brainchild of Kobe-based Kaya Group. They launched their pioneering restaurant, “TOKYO FISHERMAN’S WHARF Fish Show” in Shibuya. According to Kaya’s president, Koyama Yu, the inception was serendipitous. “We were brainstorming ways to boost lunchtime patronage when an intern expressed her desire for a dish that was both petite and photogenic.” The idea of the sake cup as a serving vessel came naturally. “The concept of variety in small portions resonated profoundly with young consumers,” noted Yu. But is this truly different from traditional sushi? Yu explains, “That’s precisely why we named it Ochoko-Don. It’s a donburi (rice bowl dish), but in a miniature format.”

Post Kaya’s booming success, many restaurateurs showed interest in this nearly 3,000-yen lunch. However, Yu believed it might be challenging to replicate this success outside Tokyo. Hence, the emphasis shifted to using local ingredients for cost-efficiency. This strategy proved successful in collaborations like the one with Kyoto’s “Gion Kankanderirei” and, more recently, a version in Nagasaki using local beef and seaweed.

Yet, the Ochoko-Don concept has evolved, with restaurants in Ikebukuro offering lunch sets with up to nine different cups. “Being able to savor a variety of exquisite dishes at an affordable price with family is genuinely delightful,” shares a recent high school graduate, Igarashi Koi.

Takahashi Katsuhiro, a chef, draws parallels to a past trend in the sushi world — the concept of variety in small servings, realized through “spoon sushi.” Regardless of the format, whether Ochoko-Don or spoon sushi, the essence remains in fresh ingredients and artful presentation.

This concept of “spoon sushi” was pioneered by Osaka chef, Sekimi Shinji, in 2015. Inspired by French appetizers, he initially placed caviar on a spoon, later adding a pinch of sushi rice. Balancing presentation with ease of consumption was the challenge, he recalls.

Once, larger-than-life dishes dominated the culinary scene. Today’s trend veers towards petite, refined, and diverse servings. Perhaps this shift mirrors today’s younger generation’s quest for value in both time and money.

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