Japan’s Beer Culture: The Undying Tradition of “とりあえずビール”

Upon arriving in Japan, one quickly becomes acquainted with the familiar call of “とりあえずビール” (Toriaezu beer), which translates to “Let’s start with a beer.” This ritual perplexed me, leading me to ponder why beer over sake, juice, or water?

Koh Naga, owner of “Owariya”, a traditional kanto stew restaurant near Kanda station since 1928, recounts that patrons would always initiate their order with a draught beer. This habit, he says, surged in popularity between the 1960s and 70s. Takashi Yamazaki, a PR representative of Kirin Beer, echoed this sentiment by noting that during the 60s, at the height of Japan’s economic boom, Kirin’s production quintupled within a decade. Given the convenience of draught systems and the refreshing nature of beer after a long day, it became the go-to beverage for Japanese professionals.

Surprisingly, beer’s journey in Japan is rather recent. Introduced by a British cargo ship in 1613, beer took its roots in Nagasaki by Dutch traders in 1812. It wasn’t until 1872, however, that the Shibuya Brewery in Osaka produced the first truly Japanese-made beer. By the late 19th century, over 100 domestic breweries dotted the nation…